Tractordata
Massey Owners Unite! Down With Deere!
2015.02.18 20:50 masseyfarmer8690 Massey Owners Unite! Down With Deere!
A b place for any fanboy who owns a Massey Ferguson, Deere and IH owners not welcome, you will be banned from Reddit.
2013.10.23 19:52 Conanator Tractors....
Post pics of tractors! Any and all tractors welcome!
2023.06.03 15:39 Travioli117 International 656 year?
 | submitted by Travioli117 to tractors [link] [comments] |
2023.06.03 01:29 zpnrg1979 Converting bulldozer to electric
Hi there,
I have a 1940's D2 that puts out about 40hp. Looking to replace it with an electric motor and Li-ion batteries.
On a bit of a shoestring budget at the moment so may have to do something to get it running and then look at the battery power later on (start small as batteries are expensive as hell, not to mention the motor(s) etc.
Anyone have any suggestions where to start? I'm thinking one motor that will go right into the transmission and drive it that way (dry clutch) vs putting two motors in the axel and driving it that way even though that is likely much more efficient. TractorData.com has specs and 3 historical comprehensive performance tests on the machine if anyone is interested in seeing the power I'm looking to replace.
Currently there are two hydraulic pistons driving the blade and want to replace that pump that runs off of the pto with either an electric hydraulic pump or electroic actuators vs. pistons.
I would really appreciate insight into motors, suppliers, and reasoning along with battery thoughts, suppliers or ideas on how to obtain, and reasoning. I'm in Ontario, Canada. While LiFePO4 looks like the current selection, I see many more tech's coming down the pipe for greater kw/h per kg along with charging time reduction along with cost reduction. I can't spend 10,000 on batteries for now, but want to have the right motor and maybe enough battery life to power it for an hour or 30 mins for now just as a test. More batteries can come later. Also looking for thoughts on motor controller and various things I'll need to identify amount of power left, rpm/tach, amp, blah blah along with charger thoughts.
Not looking to re-invent the wheel so thought I would see if there are any experts out there looking to give me their thoughts over a cup of coffee so I'm not spending weeks doing research.
Also, any thoughts on who to approach as sponsors or how to raise some funds for parts?
S
submitted by zpnrg1979 to heavyequipment [link] [comments]
I have a 1940's D2 that puts out about 40hp. Looking to replace it with an electric motor and Li-ion batteries.
On a bit of a shoestring budget at the moment so may have to do something to get it running and then look at the battery power later on (start small as batteries are expensive as hell, not to mention the motor(s) etc.
Anyone have any suggestions where to start? I'm thinking one motor that will go right into the transmission and drive it that way (dry clutch) vs putting two motors in the axel and driving it that way even though that is likely much more efficient. TractorData.com has specs and 3 historical comprehensive performance tests on the machine if anyone is interested in seeing the power I'm looking to replace.
Currently there are two hydraulic pistons driving the blade and want to replace that pump that runs off of the pto with either an electric hydraulic pump or electroic actuators vs. pistons.
I would really appreciate insight into motors, suppliers, and reasoning along with battery thoughts, suppliers or ideas on how to obtain, and reasoning. I'm in Ontario, Canada. While LiFePO4 looks like the current selection, I see many more tech's coming down the pipe for greater kw/h per kg along with charging time reduction along with cost reduction. I can't spend 10,000 on batteries for now, but want to have the right motor and maybe enough battery life to power it for an hour or 30 mins for now just as a test. More batteries can come later. Also looking for thoughts on motor controller and various things I'll need to identify amount of power left, rpm/tach, amp, blah blah along with charger thoughts.
Not looking to re-invent the wheel so thought I would see if there are any experts out there looking to give me their thoughts over a cup of coffee so I'm not spending weeks doing research.
Also, any thoughts on who to approach as sponsors or how to raise some funds for parts?
S
2023.04.02 19:45 r888k John Deere model reference
Hi,
I have been looking for quite a while for model differences between the 70s 80s and 90s models. The decoding of later (like the 6000 series) model numbers is explained well, but how does 2140 differ from 2040s from 2450 etc.
Some hints are on the first 2 digits referencing size and generation and 2 latter digits on "model". Or something like this...
Specific models are somewhat explained in tractordata.com of course and similar sites, however the pedigree is difficult to get... So if someone knows how to decode the model number or suggest a pedigree, how it goes, it would be nice.
submitted by r888k to tractors [link] [comments]
I have been looking for quite a while for model differences between the 70s 80s and 90s models. The decoding of later (like the 6000 series) model numbers is explained well, but how does 2140 differ from 2040s from 2450 etc.
Some hints are on the first 2 digits referencing size and generation and 2 latter digits on "model". Or something like this...
Specific models are somewhat explained in tractordata.com of course and similar sites, however the pedigree is difficult to get... So if someone knows how to decode the model number or suggest a pedigree, how it goes, it would be nice.
2023.01.18 19:12 dandirtjefferson Difference between Ford 10 series and 20 series tractors?
My grandpa left behind an old Ford 1210 that I would like to use around my property, but it needs a lot of work (mainly both front wheels, if anyone knows where I can get some in NorCal please let me know! But that’s another story). However, I was browsing marketplace and found a running 1120 for a decent price, but I was curious what the difference in models was. I looked up the specs on tractordata and the didn’t notice too much difference between the two (I’m a newbie to tractors fwiw), but did notice that one was listed as a 10 series and the other as a 20 series. Anyone familiar with the difference?
submitted by dandirtjefferson to tractors [link] [comments]
2022.05.23 22:04 the_geekeree Recovering L4310 after battery short
Has anyone experienced an issue where the dash remains unpowered after an electrical short? All my fuses seem to have continuity ( ~zero resistance on meter ), seeing power to the key switch and various other components but cannot get the dash to light up, or anything to actually power on. Also can't (easily) see any burnt wires anywhere.
This is my baby here: https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/5/1251-kubota-l4310.html
submitted by the_geekeree to kubota [link] [comments]
This is my baby here: https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/5/1251-kubota-l4310.html
2022.04.02 19:48 Frepete Finally getting a B2601 - couldn't do it without your help!
Hey Kubota fans!
I’m a long time lurker of this subreddit and will be part of the family soon… I’m closing a deal on a B2601 this week.
I have been making research, watching videos, looking at forums like https://orangetractortalks.com/ and comparing specs on https://www.tractordata.com/ a lot in the last year, and it gave me the knowledge to be able to make - I hope - a good choice.
I just wanted to make a great shout-out to some people who have really help me understand the world of tractors and their usage. Here is a short list of some of my go to YouTube channels. You know probably a lot of them, or maybe all, but I think it’s useful for us, beginners, to have a great list to start:
I think the Kubota community, even not so big on YouTube, was finally a big part of my choice to be part of the family instead of another brand. Without their help - and yours too - I would have look like a fool at the dealer!
- Edit: added more links
submitted by Frepete to kubota [link] [comments]
I’m a long time lurker of this subreddit and will be part of the family soon… I’m closing a deal on a B2601 this week.
I have been making research, watching videos, looking at forums like https://orangetractortalks.com/ and comparing specs on https://www.tractordata.com/ a lot in the last year, and it gave me the knowledge to be able to make - I hope - a good choice.
I just wanted to make a great shout-out to some people who have really help me understand the world of tractors and their usage. Here is a short list of some of my go to YouTube channels. You know probably a lot of them, or maybe all, but I think it’s useful for us, beginners, to have a great list to start:
- GP Outdoors (a real life user, in Canada, with real snow!) https://www.youtube.com/c/GPOutdoors
- Good Works Tractor (a good variety of topics and a lot of informations) https://www.youtube.com/c/GoodWorksTractors
- Messicks (obviously - a must) https://www.youtube.com/c/MessicksEquip
- My Cluttered Garage (another real life user, less snow!) https://www.youtube.com/c/MyClutteredGarage
- Sawing with Sandy (he is not using a Kubota, but I got a lot of useful real life info there too) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtsf3kg7DVdCDBheOa5GMzw
- B&T MacFarlane Equipment (a Kubota dealer in Canada) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnlBUHMUtaSnod-88ZetJIg
- Project Farm (for all the tools I will have to use with the tractor) https://www.youtube.com/c/ProjectFarm
- Kubota of Lynchburg (some good info there too) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZjab0fVxAAyWCNN02elMVA
- Mustie1 (good mechanics repairs, not for tractors, buy he had a Kubota project last year) https://www.youtube.com/c/mustie1
- The Mindful Homestead (homesteaders with a BX, a lot of good advices there too) https://www.youtube.com/c/TheMindfulHomestead
I think the Kubota community, even not so big on YouTube, was finally a big part of my choice to be part of the family instead of another brand. Without their help - and yours too - I would have look like a fool at the dealer!
- Edit: added more links
2022.01.03 03:49 autojazari Concerned about snow and dirt getting into the drive chain based on my design
I am working on building an autonomous snow thrower similar to the one in this video.
I tore an old RX73 tractor down to just the chassis, by removing the engine, transmission, mower deck, brakes ... basically everything. Here are pictures of the Top of Chassis, and the Underside of Chassis after I cleaned it a bit.
In terms of steering and control, differential drive robots are dead simple to control vs. ackerman steering (traditional car steering).
It's often preferred in robotics to use two motors, one connected to each back wheel, and use a free caster wheel in the front, or use a chain to connect each back wheel to the front wheel on its same side.
Another popular method is all-wheel drive by connecting a motor to each wheel but use the same DC output for the front and back motors on each side.
Seeing as I already just two 250W Motors, and chains, it seems like the easier option is to use a chain to connect the front and back wheels on each side, rather than buying more motors.
I am concerned however, with this design, that the chain in exposed to the ground seeing as the underside of the chassis is not enclosed.
I image this could potentially cause snow to build up somewhere in that mechanism. If you look at the video and how the chassis is connected to the thrower, there is a pair of linear actuators with arms, so I can also switch out the thrower for the mower deck and this robot to mow the lawn next summer. So I am concerned about dirt, mud and grass getting stuck as well.
My questions are:
submitted by autojazari to AskEngineers [link] [comments]
I tore an old RX73 tractor down to just the chassis, by removing the engine, transmission, mower deck, brakes ... basically everything. Here are pictures of the Top of Chassis, and the Underside of Chassis after I cleaned it a bit.
In terms of steering and control, differential drive robots are dead simple to control vs. ackerman steering (traditional car steering).
It's often preferred in robotics to use two motors, one connected to each back wheel, and use a free caster wheel in the front, or use a chain to connect each back wheel to the front wheel on its same side.
Another popular method is all-wheel drive by connecting a motor to each wheel but use the same DC output for the front and back motors on each side.
Seeing as I already just two 250W Motors, and chains, it seems like the easier option is to use a chain to connect the front and back wheels on each side, rather than buying more motors.
I am concerned however, with this design, that the chain in exposed to the ground seeing as the underside of the chassis is not enclosed.
I image this could potentially cause snow to build up somewhere in that mechanism. If you look at the video and how the chassis is connected to the thrower, there is a pair of linear actuators with arms, so I can also switch out the thrower for the mower deck and this robot to mow the lawn next summer. So I am concerned about dirt, mud and grass getting stuck as well.
My questions are:
- Are my concerns valid, or just lack of experience? If valid whats a good way to prevent that from happening?
- What would you change about the drive mechanism? An additional two motors is not out of the question, they're approx $40 each
2021.12.08 17:27 corninmystool Do All JD 2040s Have Mechanical Rear Diff Locks
I am considering purchasing a John Deere 2040 and the seller is unsure if it has a rear diff lock. tractordata.com says it does but I know those types of things could be optional. The tractor is over 300 miles away from me and having the rear diff lock on a non-4x4 tractor is pretty important to me. Do any of you know if the diff lock is standard equipment on all 2040s? Thanks!
submitted by corninmystool to tractors [link] [comments]
2021.10.15 16:03 difranco999 How much ballast for this Ford 1210?
 | I have a Ford 1210 tractor with a front end loader. Looking to counter balance the FEL for better traction and looking to decide how heavy to make it. submitted by difranco999 to tractors [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/fdm7taozemt71.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48265cfbe69962aa88c1a906bfc16025f2d1f05d According to tractordata:
Think this is a good weight, or should I aim for more or less? |
2021.10.13 18:53 corninmystool Are Parts Readily Available for Mid-80's Ford Tractors
I am in the market for a mid 80s diesel tractor with a loader, 3 point, and 4 wheel drive somewhere around 25-30 HP. I see a lot of Ford tractors and I have to wonder if they are good options? Are the parts hard to get? tractordata.com shows the tractors are usually made in Japan, etc. If I had one of those where do you get parts? I like that I have multiple John Deere dealers near me but I assume I cannot just go to a Ford automotive dealer for parts. Thanks for any insights!
submitted by corninmystool to tractors [link] [comments]
2021.09.10 22:19 Beckstromulus Will my Utility Tractor operate a Bush Hog?
So too start off, I will admit up front I know almost nothing about tractors. I can put fuel in, move gravel, and that's about it. Us kids of the family want to buy a grandpa a new mower as a gift.
So to my question, Grandpa has a Ford Model 1220 tractor, and somewhere between 3-4 acres of field that needs frequent mowing. There's no tree stumps, but plenty of weeds, grass, and molehills. For the last 30-something years they have been using a grooming mower to mow parts of this field over the course about a week. I'm considering getting them a Bush Hog BH114 (specs on Page 3 of the PDF), but I'm worried if the PTO Horsepower is too weak to operate safely/properly, as the Ford PTO HP is reported at 14.5 while the minimum PTO HP needed for the BH114 is 15. Will this mower work, or should I search for something different? He means alot to us and we want to give something special to make his work easier.
I'm at his house for a few more hours and I can look at the tractor manual is more information is needed, can't promise I can find the right info right away though.
Edit: Thanks for everyone who answered! I picked it up on Monday and he tried it out yesterday. Says it worked better then the groomer he had before!
submitted by Beckstromulus to tractors [link] [comments]
So to my question, Grandpa has a Ford Model 1220 tractor, and somewhere between 3-4 acres of field that needs frequent mowing. There's no tree stumps, but plenty of weeds, grass, and molehills. For the last 30-something years they have been using a grooming mower to mow parts of this field over the course about a week. I'm considering getting them a Bush Hog BH114 (specs on Page 3 of the PDF), but I'm worried if the PTO Horsepower is too weak to operate safely/properly, as the Ford PTO HP is reported at 14.5 while the minimum PTO HP needed for the BH114 is 15. Will this mower work, or should I search for something different? He means alot to us and we want to give something special to make his work easier.
I'm at his house for a few more hours and I can look at the tractor manual is more information is needed, can't promise I can find the right info right away though.
Edit: Thanks for everyone who answered! I picked it up on Monday and he tried it out yesterday. Says it worked better then the groomer he had before!
2021.09.10 17:12 jlmacdonald Farmpro 2425 Tractor - Question about accessories
Hi. I know _nothing_ about tractors. Father in law has a Farmpro 2425 https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/006/0/9/6099-farm-pro-2425.html
How does compatibility for accessories work out? I understand how the 3 point hitch and PTO work, but I'm curious about eventually obtaining a front end loader attachment for it. Do I need ones made specifically for this rig? If now, how does one go about knowing ones that are compatible? Are there standard offsets for attachment points or ?
Thanks.
submitted by jlmacdonald to tractors [link] [comments]
How does compatibility for accessories work out? I understand how the 3 point hitch and PTO work, but I'm curious about eventually obtaining a front end loader attachment for it. Do I need ones made specifically for this rig? If now, how does one go about knowing ones that are compatible? Are there standard offsets for attachment points or ?
Thanks.
2021.09.02 18:20 Jethro_Tell Help a Farmer (Horsepower required to pull 2000 LB?)
Hi all,
I'm an amateur farmer with a small farm. Not many people make farm implements for the scale I'm at. Most farming is done on a much bigger scale so I build almost everything myself. I'm currently working on building a bed-formemulch layer that pulls behind a tractor. The basic idea is that the soil is gathered into a pile then flattened into a raised bed, then a ground cover is laid over the top in the same pass. I'm trying to make this but a touch larger
I'm trying to calculate the horsepower needed to pull the machine behind my tractor. I can find smaller ones, but I think I can pull a larger one which eliminates wasted space between my rows since rows can only be as close as the width of the tractor tires.
Please help a farmer out! I have other implements I'm working to build so showing work that I can recreate it would be really helpful. Please let me know if I missed any important info.
submitted by Jethro_Tell to askmath [link] [comments]
I'm an amateur farmer with a small farm. Not many people make farm implements for the scale I'm at. Most farming is done on a much bigger scale so I build almost everything myself. I'm currently working on building a bed-formemulch layer that pulls behind a tractor. The basic idea is that the soil is gathered into a pile then flattened into a raised bed, then a ground cover is laid over the top in the same pass. I'm trying to make this but a touch larger
I'm trying to calculate the horsepower needed to pull the machine behind my tractor. I can find smaller ones, but I think I can pull a larger one which eliminates wasted space between my rows since rows can only be as close as the width of the tractor tires.
- I've calculated the volume of the soil the machine will pull at 12.5ft3
- The soil weighs 100lb/ft3 dry and 150lb/ft3 wet
- The total weight of wet soil will be about 1875lb rounded up for tarp and drip line I'd put it at 2000lb
- I have a tractor with 38 hp at the drawbar
- The tractors lowest speed is 1.7MPH or 150ft/min
Please help a farmer out! I have other implements I'm working to build so showing work that I can recreate it would be really helpful. Please let me know if I missed any important info.
2020.09.07 03:56 darksouls614 Any opinions on what I should bid on this tractor,bush hog,mower combo?
I'm going to an auction next week and there is a tractor I'm interested but I know very little about value of it. It is an auction for someone who has passed that I knew. I know this person took very good care of the tractor as he did everything else.
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/5/6/567-white-2-110.html
there is the specs on the tractor I think, or as close as I could find.
I'll type what listing says about tractor;
"18.4R38 Rears, 11L-15 fronts, 3234 hours, SN 300900-435
Bush HOG 10' cut model 32-10
New Holland 7' blade model 786B "
Similarly spec'd tractors that are newer are very expensive so what would be a good deal for me on this one?
Thanks!
submitted by darksouls614 to farming [link] [comments]
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/5/6/567-white-2-110.html
there is the specs on the tractor I think, or as close as I could find.
I'll type what listing says about tractor;
"18.4R38 Rears, 11L-15 fronts, 3234 hours, SN 300900-435
Bush HOG 10' cut model 32-10
New Holland 7' blade model 786B "
Similarly spec'd tractors that are newer are very expensive so what would be a good deal for me on this one?
Thanks!
2020.09.07 03:56 darksouls614 Any opinions on what I should bid on this tractor,bush hog,mower combo?
I'm going to an auction next week and there is a tractor I'm interested but I know very little about value of it. It is an auction for someone who has passed that I knew. I know this person took very good care of the tractor as he did everything else.
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/5/6/567-white-2-110.html
there is the specs on the tractor I think, or as close as I could find.
I'll type what listing says about tractor;
"18.4R38 Rears, 11L-15 fronts, 3234 hours, SN 300900-435
Bush HOG 10' cut model 32-10
New Holland 7' blade model 786B "
Similarly spec'd tractors that are newer are very expensive so what would be a good deal for me on this one?
Thanks!
submitted by darksouls614 to tractors [link] [comments]
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/5/6/567-white-2-110.html
there is the specs on the tractor I think, or as close as I could find.
I'll type what listing says about tractor;
"18.4R38 Rears, 11L-15 fronts, 3234 hours, SN 300900-435
Bush HOG 10' cut model 32-10
New Holland 7' blade model 786B "
Similarly spec'd tractors that are newer are very expensive so what would be a good deal for me on this one?
Thanks!
2020.08.27 23:58 purpleheadedwarrior I have an old serial number G37AH 405354 blower attachment. It doesn't fit the 175 hydrostatic, as I was told it would when I bought them. I have tried for hours to find this serial number but nothing comes up online, or at tractordata.com Does anyone have a link to show me what tractor this fits
I have a 240 as well. I am wondering if it may fit that?
submitted by purpleheadedwarrior to johndeere [link] [comments]
2020.08.26 17:14 erik8asandwich Searching for the right tractor—
TLDR: We need a tractor that can fill the role of our two older tractors. Recommendations??
We own a square mile of forest (or timber) and have used two tractors in tandem to maintain the area.
We use an Allis Chalmers 5030 w/ a pull behind mower (5ft bush hog) to maintain paths that run through the area. Mostly this involves mowing. The 5030 is perfect because it is small enough to navigate the paths but has enough to power to do most everything we need.
We also use a Allis Chalmers 190 with a scoop attached to the front and a road grating blade (sorry for the lack of proper jargon here) attached to the back to spread and level gravel on the main path, pull large logs to an area where we cut and split them into firewood, maintain a few culverts through which water flows, and other tasks the 5030 can’t quite tackle.
Both tractors (and peripheral equipment) are starting to feel their age and we are considering replacing them. Ideally the thought is that we could do this with one tractor.
What are recommendations you guys have?
5030
190
submitted by erik8asandwich to tractors [link] [comments]
We own a square mile of forest (or timber) and have used two tractors in tandem to maintain the area.
We use an Allis Chalmers 5030 w/ a pull behind mower (5ft bush hog) to maintain paths that run through the area. Mostly this involves mowing. The 5030 is perfect because it is small enough to navigate the paths but has enough to power to do most everything we need.
We also use a Allis Chalmers 190 with a scoop attached to the front and a road grating blade (sorry for the lack of proper jargon here) attached to the back to spread and level gravel on the main path, pull large logs to an area where we cut and split them into firewood, maintain a few culverts through which water flows, and other tasks the 5030 can’t quite tackle.
Both tractors (and peripheral equipment) are starting to feel their age and we are considering replacing them. Ideally the thought is that we could do this with one tractor.
What are recommendations you guys have?
5030
190
2020.07.23 14:06 51-Percent-Corn Craftsman lawn tractor hard to shift btwn forward & reverse
📷
Craftsman L3000 lawn tractor has gotten harder to shift between forward and reverse lately.
The foot pedals rock back and forth by hand OK when unit is off, but during mowing, they just don't want to play nice, sometimes I have to knock the opposite gear shift to get it to change. It has that infinity drive, hydrostatic transmission.
Mower is 4 yrs old, just under 50 hours on the clock. It's a re-badged Husqvarna, right?
42" Fast Auto 22HP Briggs & Stratton Turn Tight® Riding Mower Mfr# 20390Part# 07120390000
Any ideas? Couldn't be the belt already, could it? I keep it tarped, but below the Mason-Dixon line , we get some wicked humidity.
Maybe some debris got up between the gas tank and the transmission linkage?
Thanks!
http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/6/4/1646-craftsman-91720390-transmission.html
submitted by 51-Percent-Corn to lawncare [link] [comments]
Craftsman L3000 lawn tractor has gotten harder to shift between forward and reverse lately.
The foot pedals rock back and forth by hand OK when unit is off, but during mowing, they just don't want to play nice, sometimes I have to knock the opposite gear shift to get it to change. It has that infinity drive, hydrostatic transmission.
Mower is 4 yrs old, just under 50 hours on the clock. It's a re-badged Husqvarna, right?
42" Fast Auto 22HP Briggs & Stratton Turn Tight® Riding Mower Mfr# 20390Part# 07120390000
Any ideas? Couldn't be the belt already, could it? I keep it tarped, but below the Mason-Dixon line , we get some wicked humidity.
Maybe some debris got up between the gas tank and the transmission linkage?
Thanks!
http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/6/4/1646-craftsman-91720390-transmission.html
2020.07.17 13:42 51-Percent-Corn Sears Rider Mower hard to shift btwn forward & reverse
Craftsman lawn tractor has gotten harder to shift between forward and reverse lately.
The foot pedals rock back and forth by hand OK when unit is off, but during mowing, they just don't want to play nice, sometimes I have to knock the opposite gear shift to get it to change. It is that infinity drive, hydrostatic transmission.
Mower is 4 yrs old, just under 50 hours on the clock. It's a re-badged Husqvarna, right?
42" Fast Auto 22HP Briggs & Stratton Turn Tight® Riding MowerMfr# 20390Part# 07120390000
Any ideas? Couldn't be the belt already, could it? I keep it tarped, but below the Mason-Dixon line , we get some wicked humidity.
Maybe some debris got up between the gas tank and the transmission linkage?
Thanks!
http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/6/4/1646-craftsman-91720390-transmission.html
submitted by 51-Percent-Corn to smallengines [link] [comments]
The foot pedals rock back and forth by hand OK when unit is off, but during mowing, they just don't want to play nice, sometimes I have to knock the opposite gear shift to get it to change. It is that infinity drive, hydrostatic transmission.
Mower is 4 yrs old, just under 50 hours on the clock. It's a re-badged Husqvarna, right?
42" Fast Auto 22HP Briggs & Stratton Turn Tight® Riding MowerMfr# 20390Part# 07120390000
Any ideas? Couldn't be the belt already, could it? I keep it tarped, but below the Mason-Dixon line , we get some wicked humidity.
Maybe some debris got up between the gas tank and the transmission linkage?
Thanks!
http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/6/4/1646-craftsman-91720390-transmission.html
2020.07.06 02:03 MeatballB Husqvarna YTH22V46 Transmission Going?
Have a Husqvarna YTH22V46 with a bit over 100 hours on it and for a while now it's been having problems climbing inclines of anything over 20-30 degrees. Basically I lose power and just stop. If I let off and just barely press on the gas, it'll go up the hill, but I can tell it's struggling. Almost feels like the transmission is slipping. Also, if I try going up the hill without the blades engaged, it definitely has more power and gets further up, but I can feel it struggling as well.
Took it to a local repair shop last year, and to be honest, they basically screwed me (Don't ever go to Interstate Supplies & Services in Stallings, NC...). I told them I thought the transmission was going, and they had it for a month and then replaced the belt. Worked for about two weeks and then I had them come get it again, they kept it another few weeks, replaced some spindles and again it worked a few times and then back to the same old.
So I really think it's the transmission, which I believe is a Tuff Torq K46. Anyone have any other ideas. I'm definitely not a mechanic, but I'm not that bad, so how hard would it be for me to replace the transmission on my own?
submitted by MeatballB to lawncare [link] [comments]
Took it to a local repair shop last year, and to be honest, they basically screwed me (Don't ever go to Interstate Supplies & Services in Stallings, NC...). I told them I thought the transmission was going, and they had it for a month and then replaced the belt. Worked for about two weeks and then I had them come get it again, they kept it another few weeks, replaced some spindles and again it worked a few times and then back to the same old.
So I really think it's the transmission, which I believe is a Tuff Torq K46. Anyone have any other ideas. I'm definitely not a mechanic, but I'm not that bad, so how hard would it be for me to replace the transmission on my own?
2020.04.27 18:29 Scrappy_The_Crow Good Sites to Obtain Market Value to Set Price for Selling A Used Mower?
Y'all,
I've got an early '90s John Deere SRX75 that my grandmother bought new and used until the early '00s, when she got a yard service. It has relatively low hours and is in excellent shape overall, but will definitely need a battery/servicing/tires (and likely a fuel system redo).
A good family friend is interested. Both he and I are skilled mechanics, so the refurb is not going to be a sticking point. I'm looking to price it fairly for both of us. Can anyone suggest some good sites to determine what a fair market value is for it?
Thanks, Scrappy
submitted by Scrappy_The_Crow to lawnmowers [link] [comments]
I've got an early '90s John Deere SRX75 that my grandmother bought new and used until the early '00s, when she got a yard service. It has relatively low hours and is in excellent shape overall, but will definitely need a battery/servicing/tires (and likely a fuel system redo).
A good family friend is interested. Both he and I are skilled mechanics, so the refurb is not going to be a sticking point. I'm looking to price it fairly for both of us. Can anyone suggest some good sites to determine what a fair market value is for it?
Thanks, Scrappy
2020.04.21 13:44 GrapeJuicePlus Used Kubota L3450 or Finance new New Holland Boomer 40?
Hey folks looking for insight on these two tractor options for our 4 acre vegetable farm (4 acres production on about 150 acres):
The first is an older but impeccably maintained Kubota L3450. Seller asking $10000. The mechanic i had look at it had this to say:
"it is 100% mechanically sound, no problems he detected. He's not nervous about the head gasket (seller told me head gasket was replaced 1 or 2 years ago so I asked the mechanic to take a look). There are few cosmetic issues (torn seat cover, etc).
The tractor is old, built between 1990 and 1993, but only has 533 hours on it. With proper maintenance it should last between 6000 and 8000 hours."
Pros: Below budget and leaves us wiggle room to put money toward a new rototiller and brush hog.
Cons: Old. No warranty.
The other option is to buy from a well recommended New Holland dealer who showed us a Boomer 40 that might be right for our purposes. This is a difference of, like $16000. But it's 0% to finance right now. As an added bonus Skip, the owner, said he'd come by and take some our defunct fleet and implements off our property, and put their value towards the cost of the tractor. It's all in pretty rough shape though- could be worth 1000$ could be 3500$ I dont know. Also, Does anyone have any strong opinions one way or another on the computer systems and displays on new tractors? Seems like a lot of breakable stuff and plastic...
Pros: New. Warrantied. Dealer close-ish. Dealer will take a bunch of eyesores off our hands and put their value to our purchase.
Cons: Much more expensive. Uncertain about the sustainability of new features and such.
As a bonus, check out some of these bad pictures I took of Skip's show fleet
Thanks for any help, Y'all!
submitted by GrapeJuicePlus to tractors [link] [comments]
The first is an older but impeccably maintained Kubota L3450. Seller asking $10000. The mechanic i had look at it had this to say:
"it is 100% mechanically sound, no problems he detected. He's not nervous about the head gasket (seller told me head gasket was replaced 1 or 2 years ago so I asked the mechanic to take a look). There are few cosmetic issues (torn seat cover, etc).
The tractor is old, built between 1990 and 1993, but only has 533 hours on it. With proper maintenance it should last between 6000 and 8000 hours."
Pros: Below budget and leaves us wiggle room to put money toward a new rototiller and brush hog.
Cons: Old. No warranty.
The other option is to buy from a well recommended New Holland dealer who showed us a Boomer 40 that might be right for our purposes. This is a difference of, like $16000. But it's 0% to finance right now. As an added bonus Skip, the owner, said he'd come by and take some our defunct fleet and implements off our property, and put their value towards the cost of the tractor. It's all in pretty rough shape though- could be worth 1000$ could be 3500$ I dont know. Also, Does anyone have any strong opinions one way or another on the computer systems and displays on new tractors? Seems like a lot of breakable stuff and plastic...
Pros: New. Warrantied. Dealer close-ish. Dealer will take a bunch of eyesores off our hands and put their value to our purchase.
Cons: Much more expensive. Uncertain about the sustainability of new features and such.
As a bonus, check out some of these bad pictures I took of Skip's show fleet
Thanks for any help, Y'all!