2015 mercedes winnebago itasca navion 24g

We will be in CO/UT with several fellow RV/Jeep friends for 17 days in May. We are looking to Boondock in the best scenic spots while we are there. We have Winnebago Itasca Navion on a 2WD Sprinter 3500 diesel chassis with 825W of solar, 400aH of lithium batteries, plus our onboard 3200W diesel generator. The main issue, we know, is that most of the passes (at least the offroad passes) will more than likely be covered by snow into June/July. With that being said, where can we boondock that has epic mountain, lake, and stream views that "should" be open in May? We can do mountain roads (dirt/gravel) but prefer to avoid any washboard or anything that requires much flexing. We do have a front bumper with winch and recovery points/gear (straps, pulleys, d-rings, traction boards), but we are heavy and fat - 11,000 lbs and 7.5' wide. We may have a Wrangler in tow for more exploring, but as of right now we will not. Any recommendations on scenic boondocking spots in both Western CO and Eastern UT are very much appreciated! Thank you.

We will be in CO/UT with several fellow RV/Jeep friends for 17 days in May. We are looking to Boondock in the best scenic spots while we are there. We have Winnebago Itasca Navion on a 2WD Sprinter 3500 diesel chassis with 825W of solar, 400aH of lithium batteries, plus our onboard 3200W diesel generator. The main issue, we know, is that most of the passes (at least the offroad passes) will more than likely be covered by snow into June/July. With that being said, where can we boondock that has epic mountain, lake, and stream views that "should" be open in May? We can do mountain roads (dirt/gravel) but prefer to avoid any washboard or anything that requires much flexing. We do have a front bumper with winch and recovery points/gear (straps, pulleys, d-rings, traction boards), but we are heavy and fat - 11,000 lbs and 7.5' wide. We may have a Wrangler in tow for more exploring, but as of right now we will not. Any recommendations on scenic boondocking spots in both Western CO and Eastern UT are very much appreciated! Thank you.

Hi there. The 825W Residential Solar installation video we captured is finally finished! Check it out below for our mostly step-by-step of the process, though please read the disclaimer and info below. https://youtu.be/4ZULUfBvA_s
My wife and I have been wanting solar to our 2015.5 Mercedes Sprinter-based Winnebago Itasca Navion 24V floorplan (King/flex bed) for some time. We love boondocking and want to do do that more often than not. After lots of research and questions (Thanks to the solar experts in one of our other FB RV Groups), we finally had most of the pieces and were ready to go for our 825W Residential Solar Panel Install on our RV! A rough parts list is below, though a full list can be obtained in the video information:
-SunPower A410 Residential Series - 40V, 10.2A, 22% efficiency
-SunPower A415 Residential Series - 40.3V, 10.3A, 22.2% efficiency (Both panels run in parallel)
-20A Renogy waterproof inline fuse (x2)
-Spartan Power 2-1 t-branch (x2)
-Renogy aluminum solar panel mounts
–Custom-made aluminum spacer brackets (Wanted Bob Kelly’s spacers, but I decided on this too late. A link is in the video info)
-Victron 150/70 MPPT SmartSolar
-iGreely "2 AWG" wires - MPPT to shutoff switch to fuse to batteries (Probably more like 4-6 AWG)
-iGreely 10 AWG wires from panels down to MPPT
-80A ANL inline fuse
-3M VHB Tape
-1.5" ID pass-through port
-BestTong aluminum IP66 junction box (Just used this for the roof gland as I have future plans of running a permanent SpaceX Starlink cable and some wiring for lights and cameras up top)
We started the installation on a Sunday, around 2:30p. With several trips to Lowes and some breaks for other activities in between Sunday ended Monday morning at 1am. Then Monday we worked again from about 7p-1a, then some near final touches on Tuesday from 4p-7p with final wiring (from MPPT to shutoff switch to fuse to batteries) for 1-hour on Wednesday. Most importantly, we took our time.
I am sure there is more, but that's the main list. As you can see from the list, we utilized the VHB tape and Dicor mounting method for the panels. We made total Lowes runs (Not too bad lol) for misc hardware and such. We mounted the solar brackets to the panels, then the spacers, and mocked up/marked the feet. We cleaned the roof with Denatured Alcohol, plugged the wires/fuses/t-branches into the panels, and then mounted the panels using the VHB tape. We Dicor'd over them as a redundancy.
PANELS:
We chose the 410W and 415W SunPower Residential Solar panels for multiple reasons. They are near the most efficient panels on the market at 22% and 22.2% respectively. They provide high voltage, but low amperage allowing for 10 AWG wiring from the panels to the MPPT. This did require a robust MPPT controller, so we chose the Victron 150/70 SmartSolar MPPT as listed earlier. More info on that below. SunPower is one of the best names in the solar panel business. While the panels cannot be purchased new except by a retailer, we were able to source them as seconds (take offs) from a local retailer who removed them from another Residential project. With a limited amount of roof space, we really wanted to get the most out of our utilized roof space. 825 watts in this footprint would be impossible using the typical 100 or 200 watt panels offered by companies such as Renogy, BougeRV, Battle Born, and the like.
WIRING:
After looking at many, many routes we decided to remove the rear antenna from the coach radio and bore out the hole to fit the 1.5" ID pass-through port. After removing the right-side panel above the fridge that houses the propane, tank heaters, generator, and inverter switches we had complete access to the hole in the roof. Broke out the hole saw, bored out the hole offset a bit, and installed the pass-through port. Drilled holes into the side for the 10 AWG cables from the panels. We then routed the cables down into the coach and right out behind the fridge into the fridge vent area, down to the second (bottom) fridge vent. From there, we drilled two holes and ran the wire into the coach behind the drawers (between the fridge/sink). We then utilized the pre-cut pass-through down into the front, passenger side compartment. This is where the MPPT, cutoff switch, and 80A fuse are installed. Adding two more holes from the compartment outside and into the battery box where we fished the 2 AWG wires to the batteries. I then RTV'd the holes, just in case. Done and done.
This system uses their VictronConnect app for monitoring. I also plan to install a display inside the coach as a secondary means of seeing what the system is doing. If anyone is curious, we currently have 2 Trojan T-105 6V lead acid batteries with 225aH installed in the RV. However, we have two, LiTime 200ah Plus Lithium Batteries ready to be installed when free time allows. This will nearly double our aH capacity and more than double our actual, usable capacity. As mentioned earlier, since we enjoy Boondocking, this should be an excellent increase in our capacity as well as keeping the batteries charged enough over winter (minute the chassis battery until we get the Trik-L-Start). We will also be picking up a Victron DC to DC converter to prevent damage to the alternator with the Lithium batteries.
CAUTION: While we hope this assists other members with their solar installs and we tried to record most aspects of the installation to make it as step-by-step as possible, there may be some or several steps that were left out or differ for your specific install. We recommend only using this as a rough guideline and not as a 100% step-by-step installation video. Make sure you fully understand the entire system and your installation routing and plans. If you are not comfortable with any aspects of this video, please seek professional assistance for installation help. Please utilize all personal protective equipment and knowledge that this installation requires. If you do decide to install a solar system, you are doing so at your own risk.

Hi there. The 825W Residential Solar installation video we captured is finally finished! Check it out below for our mostly step-by-step of the process, though please read the disclaimer and info below. https://youtu.be/4ZULUfBvA_s
My wife and I have been wanting solar to our 2015.5 Mercedes Sprinter-based Winnebago Itasca Navion 24V floorplan (King/flex bed) for some time. We love boondocking and want to do do that more often than not. After lots of research and questions (Thanks to the solar experts in one of our other FB RV Groups), we finally had most of the pieces and were ready to go for our 825W Residential Solar Panel Install on our RV! A rough parts list is below, though a full list can be obtained in the video information:
-SunPower A410 Residential Series - 40V, 10.2A, 22% efficiency
-SunPower A415 Residential Series - 40.3V, 10.3A, 22.2% efficiency (Both panels run in parallel)
-20A Renogy waterproof inline fuse (x2)
-Spartan Power 2-1 t-branch (x2)
-Renogy aluminum solar panel mounts
–Custom-made aluminum spacer brackets (Wanted Bob Kelly’s spacers, but I decided on this too late. A link is in the video info)
-Victron 150/70 MPPT SmartSolar
-iGreely "2 AWG" wires - MPPT to shutoff switch to fuse to batteries (Probably more like 4-6 AWG)
-iGreely 10 AWG wires from panels down to MPPT
-80A ANL inline fuse
-3M VHB Tape
-1.5" ID pass-through port
-BestTong aluminum IP66 junction box (Just used this for the roof gland as I have future plans of running a permanent SpaceX Starlink cable and some wiring for lights and cameras up top)
We started the installation on a Sunday, around 2:30p. With several trips to Lowes and some breaks for other activities in between Sunday ended Monday morning at 1am. Then Monday we worked again from about 7p-1a, then some near final touches on Tuesday from 4p-7p with final wiring (from MPPT to shutoff switch to fuse to batteries) for 1-hour on Wednesday. Most importantly, we took our time.
I am sure there is more, but that's the main list. As you can see from the list, we utilized the VHB tape and Dicor mounting method for the panels. We made total Lowes runs (Not too bad lol) for misc hardware and such. We mounted the solar brackets to the panels, then the spacers, and mocked up/marked the feet. We cleaned the roof with Denatured Alcohol, plugged the wires/fuses/t-branches into the panels, and then mounted the panels using the VHB tape. We Dicor'd over them as a redundancy.
PANELS:
We chose the 410W and 415W SunPower Residential Solar panels for multiple reasons. They are near the most efficient panels on the market at 22% and 22.2% respectively. They provide high voltage, but low amperage allowing for 10 AWG wiring from the panels to the MPPT. This did require a robust MPPT controller, so we chose the Victron 150/70 SmartSolar MPPT as listed earlier. More info on that below. SunPower is one of the best names in the solar panel business. While the panels cannot be purchased new except by a retailer, we were able to source them as seconds (take offs) from a local retailer who removed them from another Residential project. With a limited amount of roof space, we really wanted to get the most out of our utilized roof space. 825 watts in this footprint would be impossible using the typical 100 or 200 watt panels offered by companies such as Renogy, BougeRV, Battle Born, and the like.
WIRING:
After looking at many, many routes we decided to remove the rear antenna from the coach radio and bore out the hole to fit the 1.5" ID pass-through port. After removing the right-side panel above the fridge that houses the propane, tank heaters, generator, and inverter switches we had complete access to the hole in the roof. Broke out the hole saw, bored out the hole offset a bit, and installed the pass-through port. Drilled holes into the side for the 10 AWG cables from the panels. We then routed the cables down into the coach and right out behind the fridge into the fridge vent area, down to the second (bottom) fridge vent. From there, we drilled two holes and ran the wire into the coach behind the drawers (between the fridge/sink). We then utilized the pre-cut pass-through down into the front, passenger side compartment. This is where the MPPT, cutoff switch, and 80A fuse are installed. Adding two more holes from the compartment outside and into the battery box where we fished the 2 AWG wires to the batteries. I then RTV'd the holes, just in case. Done and done.
This system uses their VictronConnect app for monitoring. I also plan to install a display inside the coach as a secondary means of seeing what the system is doing. If anyone is curious, we currently have 2 Trojan T-105 6V lead acid batteries with 225aH installed in the RV. However, we have two, LiTime 200ah Plus Lithium Batteries ready to be installed when free time allows. This will nearly double our aH capacity and more than double our actual, usable capacity. As mentioned earlier, since we enjoy Boondocking, this should be an excellent increase in our capacity as well as keeping the batteries charged enough over winter (minute the chassis battery until we get the Trik-L-Start). We will also be picking up a Victron DC to DC converter to prevent damage to the alternator with the Lithium batteries.
CAUTION: While we hope this assists other members with their solar installs and we tried to record most aspects of the installation to make it as step-by-step as possible, there may be some or several steps that were left out or differ for your specific install. We recommend only using this as a rough guideline and not as a 100% step-by-step installation video. Make sure you fully understand the entire system and your installation routing and plans. If you are not comfortable with any aspects of this video, please seek professional assistance for installation help. Please utilize all personal protective equipment and knowledge that this installation requires. If you do decide to install a solar system, you are doing so at your own risk.

My mom sent me this email asking what the scam was (Fake RV on eBay site) I offered a few possibilities and clicked on the link. I then used the "Report Item" Link and that's where I screwed up. It asked for login credentials and I entered the real ones, thinking I was really reporting this item to eBay. The reporting page is nearly perfect. Click on it if you want, just enter any fake login credentials to see how good it is. Had to rush to call eBay and change passwords etc. I feel slightly dirty.
My home computer Gmail account identifies it as a dangerous link. My iPhone Gmail did not. Looked real enough to me.
Subject: Re: Motorhome
My name is Katherine and I'm a medical nurse. The Motorhome is in very good condition inside-out. Doesn't have rust, is like a new one. Comes with a clean title, under my name. The only reason for selling is that I don't really need it, I won it after the divorce with my ex-husband.The 2015 Winnebago Itasca Navion 24G is available, last price at $19,000. It has 9,500 miles, Engine Manufacture: Mercedes-Benz Chassis, Diesel, 3.0L V6 F DOHC 24V! It's listed on eBay too, please check it there for more details, scroll down the page for more pictures: https://ebay-motors-2015-Itasca-Navion-24G.352-bryse.id/001490690825?hash=item29270:63040:548jdh3:8ZuPZKRXB~KH
All you have to do is to hit the "BUY IT NOW" Button and follow their steps and the Motorhome order will be yours. Let me know if you are making the purchase so I can deny all other offers. There are few people they're interested in buying.
Thank you, Katherine Lyons!

2014 mercedes sprinter 30 oil capacity. Here are
2014 mercedes sprinter 30 oil capacity. Here are the steps to reset the service light on a Sprinter: A friend recently purchased a 2015 Mercedes Sprinter class B motorhome. 94 per month, per $1,000 financed and 2. Viscous Coupling Radiator Fan for Sprinter 3. If it isn't printed on the oil cap, check your owners manual for the exact type before adding new oil. , Year of construction 2014, Classification code B1, Type of engine Diesel Common Rail (Turbo), Engine capacity 2,100 cc, Gearbox 6-speed, Odometer reading 89,917 km Offered by Autobedrijf Broekhuis B. 38 WINDOW SWITCH LEFT 12PIN 9065451213 9065450213 for MERCEDES SPRINTER W906 -Frarry. 71; Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 and Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 advanced full synthetic motor oils approved against Mercedes-Benz specs … Use a torque wrench to tighten the Sprinter drain plug bolt to 30 Nm (22 ft-lb). 2015 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 L4-2. It was originally a passenger van so it has the rear a/c and preheater from the factory. 80m height: 3. blauparts. Notes: Included with transmission pan. 5 liters or 10. Contact us directly … The most accurate 2017 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3500s MPG estimates based on real world results of 498 thousand miles driven in 30 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3500s sdwilliams72 fueled-up their 2014 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3500. uk guarantees high-quality car parts at very attractive prices. 2016 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter is seating 12 people. 9) Mercedes-Benz transmission, periodic service is a must. 52 spec Premium Synthetic Engine Oil for 2007 - 2016 Sprinter - 1 liter bottle Usually ships by the next business day Contact Us For Lead Time $8. It ensures the correct operation of the entire power steering system. 0L OM642 V6 turbo diesel oil fill capacity is 12. Torque: 22 ft/lbs (Oil Drain Plug) Affected Component: Equipment:other:labels. 0L DIESEL 2010-2020, Sprinter 3500 3. $13. Most engines in the new series are … Mercedes Benz Sprinter L2 311 CDI. Thread starter Och; Jun 30, 2016 #1 I bought this truck brand new exactly a year ago, it was a 2014 left over model and I got a great deal on it. 2l 4cyl turbo diesel automatic 16l/100km ave fuel inside: spacious bathroom separate toilet/ shower BorgWarner Turbo Turbocharger For Mercedes Sprinter Van 2. Featuring a custom, professional conversion, fully equipped with everything you Oil capacities Mercedes Sprinter BM906 (NCV3), Mercedes-Benz Sprinter oil capacity, Sprinter gearbox oil change, Sprinter rear axle oil change. I have a 2014 Navion 24M, bought used in April 2018. Chevrolet Cruze Gen 2 Diesel Review. 51: Engine M 271. 3 / MB Approval 229. on Saturday. Included with oil cooler assembly. It has almost 21 variations in the cargo Jul 23, 2020 · 2007-2009 Dodge Sprinter 3. This accounts for approximately 5. When it comes to elegant body styles and wheelbases, then Mercedes holds the peak place. >> Best vans for towing. Cargo Vans. Have a question so I hope someone can help. This is most noticeable on RV’s, but effects all Sprinters. Concealed Locking Fuel Filler. 6oz or 20cc "Additional oil filling capacity when replacing refrigerant compressor". on average. 5 oil is for gas engines. He tells me it's a V6 diesel that requires the 229. 99. Types of oil used in Mercedes Sprinter Model Engines. I just topped off the DEF tank and added almost 2. 86: 2014 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3500 L4-2. Tow Eye. The 2019 Sprinter BlueTec owners manual is a little clearer. AMG GT/S 2016-17 133 ft-lbs B Electric Drive 2014-15 96 ft-lbs B250e 2016-17 96 ft-lbs C32 AMG 2002-04 81 ft-lbs C43 AMG 2017 96 ft-lbs C55 AMG 2005-06 81 ft-lbs C63 AMG/S . 10m tare: 3645kg gvm: 4490kg chassis: mercedes-benz sprinter 2. Diesel News. www. £ 12,03. The Sprinter chassis has a capacity of On car. There is even a video on YouTube on how to reset your assyst. 50 gallon. none Mercedes-Benz Sprinter Oil Fill Capacity. 5 / rESEt 229. 95 Select options; Mercedes Sprinter Van 20 Gallon Auxiliary Fuel Tank Kit $ 1,995. Installation & Use Of Self-Tapping Fasteners. 52 and is safe for your diesel particulate filter (DPF) MUST BE SHIPPED BY UPS GROUND OR FEDEX GROUND, NO AIR SHIPMENTS AND NO POSTAL SERVICE This video demonstrates how to check the oil level in the automatic transmission of Mercedes-Benz Sprinter (W906) with transmission (722. 16 What kind of oil is SAE 5W-30? 1. 2014 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter Passenger Van. Find the formats you're looking for Mercedes Sprinter Oil Change Interval here. 00/126. Average 24-26mpg per last Florida drive with cruise set at 78mph mostly, idle for a few minutes prior to shut off … Most Mercedes-AMG cars are factory filled with Mobil 1 engine oil. 95: 15 Liter Oil Extractor Professional grade hand-operated oil extractor with oversize 15L capacity. 0 CDI Engine Specs, Problems & Reliability. 3" is shown together with the oil can symbol. SKU # 548748. Mercedes - E Class - Wiring Daimler Vans USA, LLC (DVUSA) is recalling certain model year 2015-2016 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 and 3500 vehicles manufactured May 31, 2015, to … BOSCH Car battery for MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER. Has a microwave, sink, refrigerator, inverter, rear ladder, hot water heater, exterior shower, porta potty, AM/FM radio with flat screen TV, cable hook up, running boards, roof-top Dometic air conditioner, roof-top Fan-Tastic fan, day/night shades, … Mercedes Benz sprinter swb. 1 V4 Turbo Diesel. (with filter)After refill check oil level. Since we are asked that so often, even a year after we bought … Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3500 Dual Rear Wheel Chassis (170″ Wheelbase/11,030 lb GVWR) 220 A Alternator. Get 17 MPG on a average. to 1 p. Front Strut Mount 2043201273 2043200073 for W204 C207 C180 C350 C200 2007

We’re new owners of a 2016 Winnebago Itasca Navion 24M. It’s a diesel Mercedes Sprinter chassis. We just got a blue def warning and lost all acceleration. We pulled over and filled the blue def, drove another couple miles and lost acceleration again. We’re moving again, but acceleration is limited, we’re maxing out at 45 mph, overdrive doesn’t kick in on hills, and there’s a check engine light on. Has anyone had a similar issue? Any ideas what could be going on? Is it a bad idea to try to nurse it back to our campsite, about 40 mins away? 😬

New owner of a used 2015 Winnebago View 24G, MB Sprinter diesel chassis. I'm wondering about whether there should be any outlets for engine heat into the coach? There are a couple of vents in the ceiling that don't appear to be connected to the roof-top heat pump or the propane furnace, but there's no air coming out when I crank up the fan in the cab, either. The chassis manual shows some controls for "rear compartment heating" but I don't see those on the dash. I guess they just leave that out when they build bare chassis? So how do folks keep the coach warm while rolling down the road?

I see a lot of these for sale used in our region. Is there something to scrutinize? Common problems, etc?

I am trying to find the replacement for the driver and passenger seat for my Mercedes Winnebago 24v. My Mercedes coach portion is a 2015, but it is a 2016 module motorhome. I got the motorhome as an upgrade from a family member, and it is in great shape other than the front seats, where the leather seemed to just decay in parts. This is a bit disheartening to be honest, as the rig only has 22,000 miles. My previous rigs have held up much better, and the vehicle seems to have been well cared for. On top of this, I cannot seem to find the seats to order. Does anybody have a recommendation? Would it be better to re-upholster?

Greetings, all. Could some of you experienced RVers could share with my wife and I the benefit of your experience with taking (or refusing) an extended warranty on your RV? Having camped our way over the years through several canvas condos, a popup, and a travel trailer, we've just purchased our first RV: a 2015 Navion IQ 24G. We can't wait to hit the road. But first...
The Navion looks to have been very well cared-for, and it's got enough miles (about 16k) for any manufacturing defects/early failures to have been addressed. We're still covered by the original Winnebago and/or Mercedes chassis and drive train warranties, but we're looking at taking a 60 month/60,000 mile extended warranty.
We generally refuse these on anything else we've purchased, but the idea of a major un-covered RV problem - a generator or refrigerator failure, for instance - is more than a little disconcerting.
The policy were considering is CornerStone RV's Ultimate, with a $250 deductible for around $2,700. There's very little that's not covered - mostly consumables, tires/wheels, and the exhaust system.
So, what do you think? The benefit of your experience will be much appreciated - many thanks in advance.

In this thread, we will make and submit fictional car owner stories.
Here is mine:
Harry Brownville was born in 1959 in Southern California. He was an aspiring painter.
In 1975, he bought his first car - a 1964 small block Corvette coupe. He had it until 1979, when joydrivers wrecked it.
As the Corvette was uninsured, he bought a different, cheap, car - a 1963 Triumph Spitfire. It was unloved and barely ran, and in a few months, it died completely by setting itself on fire.
The Spitfire got replaced by a 1961 Jeep M606, which was an old Army surplus farm truck, revived by a new battery. It was in use until 1986, when the engine had ground itself up and the car got parked on the farm.
In 1983, needing some more highway-friendly cheap transportation, which would transport him between the abandoned Marin farm he inhabited and the city of San Francisco, Mr. Brownville bought a 1971 Peugeot 504. It was quite resilient, but in 1988, an engine repair was scheduled to cost more than the car, so the Peugeot got scrapped.
Its replacement was a 1969 ex-junkyard Jaguar XJ6. Unfortunately, the car quickly showed why it was on a junkyard through needing expensive repairs, and it came back to the yard in 1989.
The replacement was a 1974 VW Beetle. It ran just fine, but by 1997, Mr. Brownville decided he wanted a newer car, and put the Beetle in use as a farm car. It was that until 2001, when it did not survive a stream crossing attempt and was pushed to the farmyard.
The Beetle's replacement as the main car was a 1984 Toyota Cressida wagon. It ran just fine until 2003, when a crash with an F-150 totaled it.
Also, in 1999, Brownville won a 1966 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow in a game of poker. However, the car was a piece of junk lacking any value, being devoid of most mechanical bits and used as a storage bin/chicken coop. It was parked in the farmyard.
When the Beetle came to a wet end, its farm truck replacement was a 1967 Deuce-and-a-half truck. Unfortunately, in 2009, the front suspension basically fell apart, and it was never repaired - the truck was parked on the farmyard.
In order to replace his Cressida, Brownville bought a 1983 Mercedes 300D sedan. Unfortunately, because the previous owner ran it on vegetable oil, the engine seized in 2006. Going to the yard as one of these cars that could be fixed.
The replacement was an $1500 Craigslist 1975 Lincoln Mark IV. It was a comfortable car, until 2012 saw the engine seizing and the Lincoln joining other cars from the farm.
In 2008, Harry was browsing the local Craigslist, and saw an $1000 1975 Winnebago. Seeing a bargain, he quickly bought it. It served him as a car for music festivals until 2010, when the engine seized and was never repaired, being put in the yard.
To replace the Deuce, 2009 saw an arrival of a 1977 Chevy CUCV. However, in 2015, the differential basically exploded and the Chevy ended up as another car in the yard.
In 2012, the Lincoln was replaced by a 1996 Chevrolet Caprice PPV, which still runs and is its owner's main car.
In 2014, Brownville saw a project car hell 1979 Datsun 280Z for $500. He decided to buy it to learn mechanics, but it is still in pieces in his barn.
2015 had the old Chevy get replaced by a 1993 Toyota Truck. It is still used on the farm.
And this is a story written by me. What are your products of imagination?

I'm hoping to find a Class B (like the Winnebago Era) sprinter van in the $40,000 range. Everything I'm finding in that price range seems to be Class C (like the Itasca Navion). I can't find any Class Bs made before 2009. Does anybody know of one? Thanks!